Our Visit to Nazareth and Galilee

Sunday, April 27----From Tom:

Nazareth and Galilee:

Here is the lock on the bathroom door--a bent nail.
Also, no paper, soap or towels. Good luck!

Traveling in the Mideast is filled with both perils and miracles. We seemed to have both. As I said earlier, we needed to leave Jordan because our visas had expired. We were illegal aliens. So I wasn't sure how we would be received at the border. As it turned out we had to pay a fine of about $100. We could have just paid a fine of $300 when we departed from the airport in June. It would have been cheaper but we would have missed the adventure.

The "bus" is the back seat of the car. 

                                                                        We booked a trip with a bus service called Trust International. What a joke! There was no one at the terminal when we arrived and when they finally did arrive it was Ronna and I in the back seat of a car. They charged  us $230 for what cost us nothing to return. They take you to the Sheikh Hussein border crossing, about 1.5 hours north. The crossing near us doesn't handle visas--go figure! They then drop you at a taxi stand about 2 km from the crossing. The taxi takes you through 2 or 3 checkpoints for passports, visa fees and security check. Then you wait an hour until the bus driver decides to go. Then you sit in the bus for an hour while the guys with machine guns check the bus. Then you go through the Israeli security check. Remember ist was about a month ago that the Israeli guards shot and killed a Jordanian judge at the crossing. It's disputed as to whether he tripped into the guard or lunged for the guard's gun. It caused major demonstrations. We then went to find the other driver for Trust International, a guy named Abo.

Sheikh Hussein Crossing into Israel-we sat about an hour 

Abo asked if we were going to Nazareth. Well, of course, that's where we booked our trip but we said we really want to go to Tiberias ( the same distance, but on the Sea of Galilee). He said it would be $60 more, which we agreed.
My big concern is that even though we booked to Nazareth, somehow we got a hotel in Tiberias. I didn't realize that everything stops in Israel at 2 PM on Friday for Shabbat or Sabbath. Our bus was not scheduled to arrive in Nazareth until about 3 PM so while I tried all the car rental agencies in Israel, none were open after 2 PM. I was even googling the taxi companies, but couldn't connect. I also didn't know if our Jordanian phone would work in Israel. So I was heading into unknown territory.

Crossing the Jordan River into Israel

Abo, for his extra shekels, drove us to Tiberias which solved a big problem. As we arrived in Tiberias, I saw a Hertz car rental about 15 minutes before closing. So we got a car----for about $100/day. (They saw me coming). Then Abo demanded double what we had agreed. So I had the car agent translating as we got into an argument about what was agreed. (Remember, they have the machine guns). Anyway I won and we settled.

On the balcony of the chapel overlooking Galilee. Capernaum is behind us. 

Tiberias was settled about 20 AD by the Romans and it's right on the Sea of Galilee. Today it's a bustling tourist town. We settled in and just started driving along the beautiful shoreline. We went by the ancient village of Capernaum, where Jesus spent so much of his time ministering with Peter and Andrew. Above Capernaum is the Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus gave the Sermon on the Mount. The church built there was closed but we appreciated walking on the open grasslands on the hillside, imagining Christ ministering here. The site has a wonderful panorama of the Sea of Galilee to the south.

Site of the Sermon on the Mount, above Capernaum

We then drove up to the Golan Heights. This is where the Syrian Army lobbed artillery shells into Israel until the Israeli Army captured it in the 1967 war. It also is the site of Bethsaida, which is the birthplace of Peter and where John, Andrew, James and Phillip lived. I didn't realize that so much of Jesus' ministry took place in this small area on the north shore of Galilee. It is a beautiful and very peaceful, verdant area surrounded by rolling hills.

On the east shore of Galilee we met with Gary and Alexis Nickel, son of Walter Nickel. They are humanitarian missionaries serving in the Jerusalem Center and guiding BYU students who come for a semester. It's interesting to have two childhood friends from Milwaukee connect on the Sea of Galilee.

The Muslim sabbath is Friday, the Jewish is Saturday and the Christian is Sunday. The LDS go along with the local custom and in Israel they worship on Saturday. The LDS purchased and renovated a small home overlooking Galilee. It is both a church and a residence for the Branch President/service couple assigned there.

Front of Galilee Chapel

President Frost, center, in Galilee Chapel

As we walked into the chapel, it was a stunning experience as the whole congregation has a panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee during the service. They only have 18 members and the meeting is conducted in English and translated simultaneously into Hebrew, Spanish and Arabic as needed. The prayer was in Spanish and the Sacrament was in Hebrew. Testimonies were shared in all the languages except Arabic.

It was an emotional experience for Ronna and I to sing "I Know That My Redeemer Lives" while looking over the area and waters where He ministered. The testimonies were equally powerful. Many of the members have to take a cab for 30-45 minutes but have been faithful for many years. The Relief Society President, Sis. Spencer, had just had a stroke, but had served in the area for over 50 years and had received a highly valued service award from the Israeli government for her charitable work through the years. She is from Canada but moved and became an Israeli citizen. She never married but devoted full time to caring for others. Our Mother Teresa.

We took the afternoon and drove to the Valley of Armageddon, where it is prophesied that the last battle will be fought and Christ will appear to defeat the Anti-Christ. It looks like Cache Valley except the mountains are just low hills.

We drove to Nazareth and saw where Mary was visited at age 14 by the angel Gabriel, telling her that she would be the mother of Jesus. It is now a large church built over the humble cave-dwelling where Mary lived.

The cave/home in Nazareth where Mary is believed to have been visited by the Angel Gabriel announcing Jesus. 

View from Mt. Tabor where Jesus was transfigured and met with Moses and Elijah

We also visited Mt. Tabor, where Jesus was transfigured and he met with Moses and Elijah. It is a very prominent mountain in the center of a large flat valley. It is now a park and picnic area and large groups were gathered, unfortunately playing loud, head banging music. Not a spiritual setting anymore.

On Sunday, we met for lunch with the Galilee Branch President, Jay Frost and his wife. They then offered to take us to the border crossing. We had worried about how we were going to get home.

After the gruesome ritual of going back through the Israeli and Jordanian security we found ourselves in an empty parking lot. No cars, cabs or buses. I started to panic since our phone had also just run out of minutes and it was late in the afternoon. A man named, Suliman, saw Ronna and offered to take us to the next taxi stand, a few kilometers away but he just kept going and took us all the way. He even wanted to buy us dinner and have tea. He was so gracious and seemed thankful to have Americans travel with him. It really was an unexpected blessing to us.

We Signed Up for Another Year / Our Health / Refugee Conference

Sunday, April 20--HAPPY EASTER

This week, leading up to Easter, we reflected that we are only about 30 direct miles from where Jesus brought about the Atonement. We are grateful to be here since it gives a visual reference to all those sacred events that changed the world and all mankind. We were grateful to have spent time in Galilee and Nazareth. I'll share more later but it deeply touched us. Now, as we read or discuss stories in Jesus life, there will be vivid images and feelings.

It's pretty interesting celebrating Easter in a predominantly Muslim nation. Much quieter but we are still greeted by shopkeepers who recognize us as Westerners with a "Happy Easter". Many students and other faculty also celebrate Easter and send very kind greetings. I was even told that they have colored Easter eggs for many generations, even using natural materials like onion skins for coloring. It is interesting to note that this region was predominantly Christian many years ago. The shift to Islam came as foreign powers such as the Ottoman Empire was very coercive. Today, Jordanians pride themselves on enjoying peaceful tolerance. I was told by one Jordanian, "you don't ask about religion or make it an issue". I have found that many Christians are proud of their faith and openly express it.

We have our Sabbath on Friday, as do the Muslims. So today, Easter, we had an unusual activity--we spent the morning paying our taxes at the Ministry of Finance---gruesome experience. We were helped by a wonderful accountant with KPMG who originally quoted about $6,000 fee to do our $700 taxes, but later offered to do them for nothing, primarily because his son was one of Ronna's favorite students. Is that good luck, corruption or as they say here, "wasta"---you scratch my back and I'll scratch yours. It's how the country runs.

RE-ENLISTING: Ronna and I were asked to come back and teach for another year. We accepted, even though we knew it would be tough on Lindee and her family. Why did we sign up? We don't think our work is completed here. There are some initiatives I've started that focus on changing the campus that are taking hold. I've also been helping develop the foreign studies program, which has more obstacles than you can imagine. I believe I've also been helpful in how they approach resolving problems. But that may take a lifetime. I'm also teaching four classes and am having some success in seeing creative thinking start to develop in the students. (Classes are Design Principles, Psychology of Design, Conceptual Thinking and Professional Practice). I have no textbooks. And the kids really don't read. As a  culture they don't read but I'm pounding reading into their heads.

Ronna is also teaching four classes but has much larger classes totaling about 90 students. Plus Ronna started a writing lab that is starting to grow. She is a very dedicated and creative teacher and we get a lot of feedback that they like the American way of teaching. We both are very interactive with the students, asking their opinions. One of my students said he loves it because no other professor has asked his opinion. He wants to be a film director and is very ambitious.

So we'll come home for the summer about June 24/5 and stay until Sept 3, when we will go to visit Chandi and Geoff in Pennsylvania. We need to be back in Jordan on September 15th. Dean Ra'ed says he wants me to take a leadership position but that hasn't been confirmed yet, so we'll see.

Jordanian Rainbow--In a country where it seldom rains, it's very rare to see a rainbow. We took it for a sign. 

OUR HEALTH: Many have asked how we are doing, being away from our usual surroundings and good medical help. Actually we have been doing very well, even better than at home. That may be due to the milder climate, the better sleep, or more regular lifestyle. We still have stress but it's manageable. Recently Ronna came down with deep, severe coughing. It started to look serious but our physician at the campus felt it was an allergic reaction. There is a lot of wind which kicks up the dust and various pollens. The medicine he prescribed did the trick and she's doing well again. I always have a deep cough due to asthma and have learned to live with it. It has been better here and I haven't had a serious bout requiring antibiotics over the winter at all. That's a first in 10 years. 

My trouble is knees, legs and back. I have spinal stenosis and degenerative disc disease so my legs go numb if I stand over 10 minutes. Hard to lecture, so I keep jumping around, dancing, whirling and doing imitations. The students think it's a teaching method but it's therapy for neuropathy. 

REFUGEES: We hosted an International Conference on Urban Minorities and had students and scholars here from Germany, Egypt, Turkey, Lebanon, Syria and Jordan. It focused on how various social/ethnic groups have migrated into Jordan and other countries over the years. The majority of the population of Jordan now are refugees. Jordan's tradition and culture is to welcome all refugees but it is now reaching a breaking point. Groups have included Circassians, Iraqis, Egyptians, Gypsies, Palestinians and most recently, Syrians. Most groups, given some time have integrated into the social fabric and become successful. The current wave is too large and have come too quickly. 

I was asked to make a presentation with only about 45 minutes notice when two of the presenters didn't show up. I did a presentation on the grassroots decision making process we employed with "Envision Cache Valley" and had graphics to show. It worked out well. 

Lara Farah lived among the gypsies for several years and gained their trust and confidence. She said they enjoy their lifestyle although we see them as the most troubled social group, living in horrible poverty. 

Our Egyptian friend, Hebatallah

 We really connected with Hebatallah, the lead scholar from Egypt. She spoke of how the "construction mafia" had ruined Alexandria and Cairo by wiping out existing neighborhoods, evicting people without recourse to build unsound, extremely dense new developments that don't meet building codes, all through corrupt practices of bribes and payoffs. Buildings collapse on top of other buildings but the developers and contractors have made billions while destroying the social fabric.

Immigration in the US is a much smaller issue than many of the countries in the Middle East. What if the US had 175 million refugees or illegal immigrants? That's a proportionate number to Jordan.

International Students of Urban Minorities Conference at a Break

A gypsy encampment just east of our home. They come through our yard with goats daily.

VISITORS FROM THE US: This week Brian and Mary Ann Strong, Brent's brother, will visit and stay with us. They are on a tour of the Holy Land and Istanbul and will take an extended tour, visiting Brent and Margaret and us. 

We are getting homesick and certainly our children and grandkids are foremost on our minds when thinking of home. But we also miss our wonderful friends and neighbors. See you in June. 

We were Illegal Aliens so we went to Galilee!!

Sunday, April 6-From Tom (This is a week late due to the shut down of internet connection. Sorry!)

We found out we were illegal aliens. Our Jordanian visa had expired on March 10th. We tried all sorts of things but we were told we needed to leave Jordan and return. We thought of going to Egypt and Lebanon but that seemed a bit scary at this time. The simplest would be to just drive to the border crossing ( 1.5 hours north)walk over and go through the checkpoints and turn around and cross back. That would have taken at least 6 hours and would have been a waste of time.

So we got the inspiration to take a bus to Nazareth and see Jesus' boyhood home. It was supposed to be a 7 hour ride one way ( 3-4 hours to go through the very difficult border crossing).

I can't tell the whole story right now, but the short version is that we were very nervous because of all the hurdles and nothing was working out right. We had arranged a bus ride to Nazareth, but reserved a hotel in Tiberias, next to the Sea of Galilee. It turned out that our bus wasn't scheduled to arrive until an hour after everything shut down--I mean everything because of the Jewish Shabbat, or Sabbath. Thus there would be no rental cars and maybe no taxis for the 30 kilometer journey for at least a day. I tried 20 different agencies and they all shut down. I imagined Ronna and I toting bags along the highway.

I'll fill in the details later but there were a good number of miracles; things that are really hard to explain except that our guardian angels were watching over us again.

We returned safe and sound and had an incredible journey. We visited Tiberias, Nazareth, Capernaum, Beth Saida, the Sea of Galilee, the site of the Sermon on the Mount, sites of other miracles such as the loaves and fishes, the Transfiguration on Mt. Tabor and the Valley of Armageddon.

One of the best experiences was having a Sacrament Meeting in the chapel overlooking the Sea of Galilee. The meetings are conducted and translated in English, Spanish, Arabic and Hebrew. It was a testimony meeting so there was a lot of translation but a very powerful spirit. The chapel actually has a panoramic view of the Sea. Can you imagine the feeling as we began by singing "I Know That My Redeemer Lives" as we looked out on where the Savior calmed the waves, walked on water and healed the sick. It was  very touching experience.

View from our chapel overlooking the Sea of Galilee toward Capernaum

Everything fell into place like we had guardian angels watching over us. I still get choked up thinking of it. We'll fill in the details later since we're now behind in our exams and grading and our internet is really giving us trouble again. We're learning patience.

East shoreline of the Sea of Galilee