Site of Jesus' Baptism and Elijah's Ascension to Heaven

Jordan River--close to where Jesus was baptized

Dec. 29--From Tom:

After Christmas we decided on a getaway to see some special sites and "warm up" our chilled bones. On Saturday we drove from Madaba down Mt. Nebo to the site of Jesus' baptism in the River Jordan, about 45 minutes away. We were pleasantly surprised, having expected it to be far more commercial. Because the Jordan River is the military boundary between Israel and Jordan there is high security and armed guards on both sides of the river. But there is good access for visitors both from the Israel/West Bank side and the Jordan side.

Because this is a major visitor attraction there are good roads, parking, and shuttle buses to the site. The shuttles are required because of the military checkpoint. Our guide was a Jordanian Christian and spoke with reverence and respect. There are a number of faiths that have built churches or shrines nearby but they don't detract from the setting.

We were able to walk through willows next to the Jordan River to get a sense for what it may have looked like at the time of Christ. The Jordan is about the size of the Logan River but slower and deeper. It also is greenish, brown and polluted from the agriculture industries above. Apparently it was much larger at the time of Christ but Israel, Syria and Jordan have diverted so much water from its tributaries that it is a fraction of what it once was. In fact the Dead Sea is drying up as a result, dropping about 3 ft per year.

Archaeological studies have given a good indication as to where the probable baptism site was and four stone pillars were excavated that were built by early Christians to mark the spot. Because of the low water level, this specific site only fills with water in the early spring. But I had a special feeling as we stood there contemplating.

At the river there are steps leading down to the water from both Jordan and Israel. If someone wants to be baptized in the Jordan River, they must go to the Catholic church on the Israel side and they give a white robe and the person can go down into the river. We saw several people that went into the water and immersed themselves with no ceremony. I'm sure that there could be a baptism service but there would be no privacy. Yet people are respectful, including the armed guards. It's interesting that at this most sacred site there are people only 20 ft apart but not able to connect.

I also reflected that 2000 years ago Jesus quietly walked alone the many miles through this desolate wilderness to what is called Bethany beyond the Jordan to have the simple ordinance of baptism performed by John. He was the Son of God, the Creator, the Savior and yet he submitted to be baptized in this humble place and simple manner.

These stone piers mark the place where it is believed Jesus was baptized. The river has moved. 

Looking across the Jordan River to the Israel/Palestinian West Bank side. Armed guards at top of walls. Baptisms to the left

Nearby is also the site of Elijah, the ancient prophet's, ascension into heaven although there is no marking of the site or memorial to indicate a location. It's also where Joshua crossed the Jordan into the Promised Land. Jericho is only a few miles to the west but the walls came tumbling down a long time ago. :)

'Tis the Night after Christmas and a Visit From the King

December 26--From Tom:

Our Christmas Program at church was intimate, only 40 members. Everyone took part. I actually got a little choked up remembering we are celebrating Christmas in this lonely but sacred place. Little Claire Hendricksen, age 9, led the singing because her mom plays the piano and her dad is the Branch President. She took it very seriously but did a great job. I though of the quote from Isaiah "..and a little child shall lead them."

Claire, age 9, led the singing in Christmas Program--Did a great job!!

Our Christmas Day:
We were invited to the Hendricksen home for Christmas day along with Brent and Margaret Strong. We played with the kids, had a wonderful meal, opened some presents and played games. It was like home, almost, except WE MISS OUR GRANDKIDS AND FAMILY.

The Hendricksen's are a US Embassy family, the home is wonderful, warm and protected by an armed guard outside. They home school the children so the home is a virtual school, play yard and learning laboratory with lots of artwork, projects, experiments and toys. But they also don't have the neighborhood friends or playing in the green grassy yard. When I asked the kids if they played with friends in the neighborhood they looked at me like I was crazy. Their friends are their family and they play and live well with each other. But they also crave attention and we were like the lost grandparents they missed so much. Each one had to show and demonstrate all their toys, dolls, books. We spent a good deal of the time playing on the floor.

Gramma Ronna playing dolls with Clair while Andrew and Peter are getting ready to attack Grampa Tom

They have lived in Finland, Cameroon, Jordan and the US. Each assignment will be for about 4 years. They are taken care of very well and the life is full of adventure, but there are obvious drawbacks. Each of the families from the embassy are well educated, intelligent and mostly with precocious children. The Hendricksen family is very unassuming and laid back--no pretentiousness.

Back to Our Cold Apartment:
I did a little analysis of our heating system, what there is of it. If the sun is shining, we get hot showers from the solar system. It doesn't heat our house. There is an old boiler on the roof that uses diesel. It's a dinosaur. I figured that it will cost about $420/month and we only use it sparingly. In order to change from solar to the boiler, I need to climb up on the roof (often in the dark) and slide behind the boiler and switch 3 valves. The floor of the boiler room has liquid spilled and smells like fuel. I started wheezing.
The photo of the boiler is "as is"-- not being repaired.

Our heating system on the roof. Sort of makes you wonder!

Our solar system works when the sun shines, for showers and washing only. 

A Visit by the King:
Last Monday King Abdullah II paid a surprise visit to our campus. We noticed all the high security with guards holding machine guns at the gated checkpoint. It was not actually for the faculty or students but for the leaders of Madaba. The religious leaders of the various faiths, Muslim and Christian, attended as well as the regional religious leaders. I was supposed to have some meetings with some key campus administration but they cancelled due to the King's visit.

I have attached the article from the Jordan Times that describes the messages shared in the meeting for your information. It discusses how Jordan, and particularly Madaba, is an example to the world of how religiously diverse cultures can live together in harmony. There is a strong message for the world.

It's interesting that the Latin Archbishop of Jerusalem, Fouad Twal is from Madaba. The Twal family is one of the founding families here. I have some Twal's in my classes.

Jordan: an example of religious harmony (from Jordan Times)

Dec 24, 2013 | 21:31 Updated: Dec 24, 2013 | 22:06

His Majesty King Abdullah, accompanied by HRH Crown Prince Hussein, on Monday paid a visit to the city of Madaba, south of Amman, to offer their best wishes to the Christian community in Jordan on the occasion of Christmas and New Year.

The King and the Crown Prince attended a celebration on the occasion; also present were religious leaders and representatives of the community.

It is no coincidence that the ceremony was hosted by the ancient city of Madaba, home to unique historical artifacts dating back to the Byzantine and Umayyad eras; the centuries-old Madaba Mosaic Map in the Saint George Church, which depicts the holy land, or what is now the Middle East, with Jerusalem as its centre, is one such treasure.

Madaba is an example of coexistence and brotherly ties between Jordanians of the two faiths, living proof that the Christian community in Jordan is an integral part of the country’s fabric and a main pillar of the Jordanian society.

Jordanians live together as one, regardless of their faith, enjoying the same rights and duties, and working together to serve their country.

This coexistence and harmony makes Jordan a model that the entire region and other parts of the world could emulate.

At the official level, there is no discrimination in the country between followers of these two monotheistic religions.

Moreover, Jordan is custodian of Muslim and Christian holy sites in Jerusalem, a role the Kingdom played before the occupation of Palestine and that was stressed, again, in its 1994 peace treaty with Israel, as well as by the Jordanian-Palestinian agreements, thus helping safeguard these sites and maintaining them.

This Jordanian role was highlighted by Patriarch of Jerusalem, all Palestine and Jordan Theophilos III, who was present at Monday’s ceremony in Madaba and who commended efforts by the King to bring about peace in the region.

“The patriarchate of Jerusalem, which enjoys your noble protection, along with the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Al Aqsa Mosque and the other Islamic and Christian holy sites, holds you in high esteem as you work hard under severely difficult conditions to make peace in the Middle East,” the patriarch told the King.

Theophilos noted that the King “has been following in the footsteps of [his] great father, His Majesty the late King Hussein and [his] Hashemite predecessors, the grandchildren of the noble Prophet”.

The Latin archbishop of Jerusalem, Patriarch Fouad Twal, who hails from Madaba, also highlighted the King’s efforts to protect Christians in the region.

“We, in cooperation with the Catholic Church in the entire world, share with you your concerns and efforts to protect the Christian presence in the Middle East and its Arab Christian identity,” said Twal, also reminding the audience of His Majesty’s statement, during a conference in September, that preserving this existence and identity is not a favour, but a duty.

Jordan’s accommodating stand is in contrast to those of many other countries in the region, particularly Palestine, Syria and Iraq, and other parts of the world, which witness a growing number of Christians leaving to escape violence or for better living conditions.

This situation and Jordan’s endeavours to protect holy sites is bound to figure high during Pope Francis’ visit to Jordan next year, a visit that again highlights the important role the country plays in enhancing interfaith ties and dialogue around the world.

Jordan will always play such a role, and will continue to present a model to other countries of the region and the world on coexistence, fraternity and solidarity between followers of different faiths who come together to build a better future for their country and their children.

Christmas Eve - 2013

Christmas Eve, 2013--From Ronna:

Six months have passed since we made the decision to live and teach in the Middle East. What a journey this has been with more to come as each day unfolds. As that ever-constant sun rises over the rolling deserts of Jordan each morning and then descends over the hills beyond the Dead Sea at dusk, we realize how very far away we are from home and from our loved ones. It is at these times when the voices of Muslim chanters echo through the olive orchards that our own prayers go up in gratitude for one more day to breathe in the bounties we enjoy.

Perhaps in living more simply here, we treasure that which we left behind even more. As we watch families gather together (and Jordanians use any excuse to gather with family and friends), we miss our own family gatherings and question why we decided to come to such a foreign place.  We don’t have an answer yet.

Although we won’t visit Israel until spring, we know that the Savior and his apostles walked along the dusty paths up and down this vast desert. The Jordan Valley must have been a welcome oasis for the weary prophets. As we ride along in the comfort of our car, it is hard to imagine walking over this barren land. The ancient ritual of washing one’s feet becomes more than a gift of hospitality and humility; the sounds of centuries of sandaled feet greet our ears and fill our consciousness. Why Christ would be born here in the cradle of civilization isn’t so great a mystery. Ancient place names recorded in the Bible assemble themselves into the reality of ruins—once city walls and temples, marketplaces and amphitheaters where people worked and played, lived and died. What are their voices saying to us?

Mosque at the entrance to Madaba--with major winter storm approaching

Perhaps He stopped and sat on the smooth limb of an olive tree whose sturdy divided trunks bend and twist making natural seats for the weary traveler. Outside our kitchen window grows such a tree. The almost constant winds toss the feather-like leaves, turning them over to reveal lighter undersides of silvery-green. It is winter and there is no fruit, but the branches retain their leaves that catch the current of unseen air and wave greetings to the pristine sky. Did His hand caress the cool bark as He rested, did His brow bend to touch it and did He feel the lifeblood of the House of Israel course within? 

As we celebrate His birth and praise His name in music and prayer tomorrow, we are experiencing quite a different Christmas than we have known before. We will exchange gifts and share a feast and mingle with new friends as in the past. However, this Christmas finds us changed and we ponder our purpose and examine the life we have built together. Is our fruit good in His sight? Because, at the close of this year, that is all that really matters.  

Christmas in the Holy Land

Sunday, Dec 22--From Tom:

This has been the most interesting 12 days to Christmas. 

Aftermath of record storm: First, the snowstorm that came through set all records. There was 3 feet of snow in Amman a week ago. It shut the city down totally. The university closed for over a week. They still have piles of snow up to 8 ft high in places. Their problem is that there are no plows, no salt and no one knows how to handle it. I have a video taken from a 4th floor window looking down on a street sloping down. The cars are just spontaneously sliding down and people are jumping in front trying to stop the vehicles but the trucks and cars just kept sliding and bumping into everything on the way down. 

Madaba only got about 3 inches even though we had fierce cold winds. After it cleared and was sunny and warm again, we drove as normal to school. Surprise!! There was no one there. School was cancelled the whole week because Amman, where most students come from, was totally iced over. 

So we made the most of it. We got a Christmas tree from a ward family and Ronna decorated it with little Jordanian crafts she modified. Little camels, elephants and Jordanian men in red scarves with red and white lights. We are actually seeing many shops decorated for Christmas. This in a 92% Muslim country. We hear that many Muslims see Christmas as a wonderful family holiday and join in. There are many shops dedicated just to Christmas. Interesting. 

Herod's Palace: We took a day and drove down to Um-al-Rasas, an ancient Roman city and Mukawir castle, which was Herod's getaway palace and fortress. It was there that Salome danced and asked for the head of John the Baptist. He was brought there and beheaded in one of the adjacent caves. Herod's castle is on a spectacular site overlooking the Dead Sea. It's a brutal climb to the top. As I was grinding my way to the top, I was thinking of the courage and dedication John the Baptist must have had to make that gruesome climb to be beheaded. It was an interesting reflection. 

Church Christmas Program: Our little branch is only 41 or so people now. So everyone was on the Program. There was a children's choir of 9, a men's choir of about 12, a women's choir of about 11 and a total choir of about 15. Two young boys were the narrators and mispronounced most words. The best was little 9 year old Claire, who directed the whole congregation in all the music. She did much better than most ward directors and was very serious about it. It was terrific. With this little branch in Jordan there was an incredible spirit of love and fellowship. I had tears through most of the meeting, but I'm getting old and sentimental. 

We're invited to the Branch Presidents home for Christmas so we got some presents and Ronna wrapped them. We also got each other some snugly things to keep warm and will re-wrap them. Two hot water bottles, long johns and sweaters. Not romantic but we're just trying to survive. 

Another surprise!! No one told us but the King or someone in government made the quick decision to go on Daylight Saving Time. It was a quick decision and who knows why at this date. Anyway, we got no announcement so we had an extra hour to doze in the car before church. "Welcome to Jordan"

Heaven: Today I discovered heaven. It's on the roof of our house. I took a chair up there and placed it next to a white wall. So I got the reflection of the sun off the wall, off the white roof and directly. While  our apartment is probably 50 degrees because it's all concrete, I was basking in the sun, feeling like it was over 80 degrees. Pure heaven. 

Our little Christmas Tree--Ronna fashioned the Ornaments

Christmas Tree and crafts at City Mall--No Santa

Herod's Palace ruins--where Salome danced, looking toward Dead Sea and Israel

View of Dead Sean and Israel from Herod's Palace--Where John the Baptist was beheaded. Bethlehem is probably on the horizon. 

Remembering the Forgotten

Dec. 15, From Tom:

We complain a lot--most of us. You've heard us complain of our lack of insulation or the poor heating system or whatever. Yes, things can always be better but I have been thinking recently of the millions who are trying to survive while being exposed to the severe winter weather. It is estimated that over 6 million are homeless within Syria and well over 2 million are refugees who have fled to Jordan, Lebanon, Iraq and Turkey.

I've seen reports showing families burning shoes as a last means to keep warm. Some villages in the mountains have been isolated by the government to prevent delivery of food, fuel or medicine. They expect that a village of 12,000 about 100 miles north of us will be entirely lost. This was before the recent storm.

The recent storm was brutal by local standards. Amman had about 3 feet of snow. We had winds of 30-40 mph howling for several days with blowing sleet and cold rain. Even Cairo, Egypt had snow for the first time in 126 years and severe flooding in the Gaza strip. So I wonder how these poor people, mostly women and children, can endure. Now, I'm more grateful for what we have.

I found an informative and well written report describing the Za'atari Refugee Camp by a woman who worked there. I urge you to read this. The link is:

 http://arabist.net/blog/2013/4/2/the-zaatari-refugee-camp.html

Za'atari is about one hour north of Amman. In less than 2 years it grew from zero to over 140,000 refugees. It's good that these camps are being provided by the UN but their living conditions are unimaginable. We are warned not to go near because it is not safe for us who are not trained. Our landlords daughter, Sewar, works for Save the Children and verifies that it is dangerous. She has been attacked. It's unpredictable. The refugees have lost everything and are desperate. There also are tribal and village rivalries. Yet, they really just want to go home and take up their lives, simple lives. I believe this probably won't be possible any more. The country has been destroyed to the point that there is not much to rebuild any more. And the conflict is getting worse and is not close to being settled.

I've read that Syria is only one of about 52 countries where there are significant populations who are displaced or homeless. These total nearly 25 million people living without what most of us take for granted.

As I've written earlier, we see many families living in tents in our neighborhood, our community and all around Amman. As squalid as their living conditions are, they are living in much better conditions than those at the refugee camps or those still in Syria.

So during this Christmas time, even as Ronna and I are lonesome for our wonderful family, friends, home and community, we have come to appreciate even more the blessings we have, not only in our comfort and safety but also in having wonderful loved ones, opportunities and hope.

Our love to all of you.

Al Za'atari Refugee Camp about one hour north--140.000 Syrians, mostly women and children

Al Za'atari Regugee Camp, main walking street

When refugees have almost nothing--heartbreaking to have fire take it all. 

Black and White

Friday, Dec 13, From Ronna:

COLD-IT'S RELATIVE: Last Wednesday we arrived at school around 12:30 for our classes at 1:00. All night-long the 25 mph winds had whipped the barren olive branches in our orchard into a frenzy and whistled in and around and through this old building we call home. We huddled under blankets and ski hats as the cement walls and floors sucked up any heat generated from the little radiators in every room. Torrents of rain began mixing with the wind gusts and the scant numbers of students and faculty who had braved the storm, hid inside.

"We are canceling all classes for this afternoon so the students can get home," announced my cordial dean Dr. Issam. ""Tomorrow has been declared a holiday, as well." Not surprising. Every other week has at least one holiday here in Jordan. I had to walk outside to the furthest building for my class to make sure any diligent students were informed. To my surprise, half of the class showed up and their reward: I told them what was going to be on their second exam next week. One asked if he could see it. Nice try.

Instead of going directly home, we stopped at the local small appliance store and bought two radiant heaters (one for each of us at our desks) and got a "take away" of hot lentil soup from one of our "go to" restaurants. Back home, dressed in our ski outfits with radiant heat defrosting our bones, we sipped hot soup and played a competitive game of Scrabble. (I won.) The wind and rain accompanied us.

Thursday, we awoke to swirling snow! SNOW! My students had told me that they get snow, but I didn't believe them. They are the same ones who wrap up in scarves, parkas and boots when the thermometer dips to 50 degrees. However, this morning (Friday--church was cancelled), the wind has blown and melted all of the snow. Blink. Snow. Blink. No snow. I think it's a Jordanian magic trick. More snow is predicted, and the wind is constant. How can I complain when Logan has zero degrees and a foot of snow? I look at the gypsy tents and shiver. The dogs are finally subdued.

THE REAL BLACK: We are driving home through the back streets of Madaba one night, and our headlights illuminate what seemed like a shadow moments before. No. It is a Muslim woman, dressed in her long black covering, her black head scarf, her black shoes, and her black purse. Unless she smiles, there is no break in the blackness. Somehow, the women all come out and walk along the dark streets in the evening, each hand holding tightly to a child. Why are the children not in bed? Where are the men? Some are walking along the streets, too, but the red and white scarves they wear act like a reflective sign. There are no sidewalks and so you have to be on constant alert for the dark figures darting out between parked cars and dark alleys.

COOKING: I am going to attempt one of my favorite dishes for dinner: Quiche Lorraine. They have wonderful cheeses here and Cozmo is one store which sells the forbidden meat: bacon. (A small side note: I happened to see where the animal rights people are asking that supporters sign a petition to enforce better living conditions for pigs in the European Union. I'll be doing a unit on endangered animals in one of my classes next month and I just might throw that in out of sheer evilness). Back to the recipe: lots of eggs (fresh from the chickens with no refrigeration!), labaneh which is a good version of sour cream, onions, broccoli and we are good to go! Only problem: forgot to buy a rolling pin and I have no pie plate, but I have a pyrex dish and I can press and mold the crust between sheets of wax paper. It will be yummy!

CHRISTMAS TREE: Yes! I am decorating a fat, little, fake tree: Mohammadyousef Mohammad Emad Al-Juboori (Mojo) will be covered in camels of all shapes and sizes and little Jordanian fridge-magnets-turned ornaments. Add red and white lights (Jordanian colors) and Tom will find me a star for the top. I think I will keep the tree in the corner of the living room until we leave. Most shops in Madaba and even Amman are decorated with little trees or lights. I never would have believed that existed in a Muslim country. I am making rice bags that you can heat up in the microwave for Christmas presents if I can find the fabric and someone with a sewing machine to sew them for me!!!!  Merry, Merry!  

Snowstorm in Jordan--Everything shuts down

Tom seeking the warmth of sun- clothed in turtleneck, heavy sweater, fleece vest plus coat and hat. 

Snow and cold in Jordan?? Also Christmas, Camels and Student Violence

Sunday, December 8--From Tom:

Snow and Cold: I know it's not as cold as Utah but it's now getting down in the 30's. The difference is that they don't have insulation so the walls and floors are cold. The heating system is antiquated and expensive. To get warm water I need to get up almost 2 hours early and go up on the roof and switch the valves around and turn on the boiler. If we're lucky it will be warm in a while. Same with the building heat. Ronna and I went out to get woolen snuggles, hats and slippers to live in our place. I miss my steam room and radiant floor.

Snow is predicted on Wednesday. We've had steady rain for a few days. They really need it but it's strange having solid sun and warm for 3 months and then the change. My students come in down filled parkas and mittens.

Christmas in Jordan: It's hard to imagine Christmas in a country that is 92% Muslim. But they put up the largest Christmas tree in all of Jordan down in the center of Madaba, fully decorated. That's because Madaba is the center of Christianity in Jordan. The malls are also all decorated and playing Christmas music. One of the ward members from the embassy had an extra Christmas tree and contributed to us. So we got our tree. Ronna wants to decorate it with Jordanian crafts and keep it up as long as we're here. We got rid of the plastic palm tree they had for us.

Our little branch is down to about 40 people since all the BYU students and families went back. So the Christmas program is next week and will involve all members. Ronna will be the sole person in the audience and is happy to play that role.

Camels?? Yes we got a new baby camel in the neighborhood. I almost got a picture of her wobbling on her new legs but she crumpled down. I couldn't spend much time since her mom or dad was coming to either kiss me or bite me and I didn't want either.

Allison the camel's new baby daughter

Student Violence-- There are reports of a large increase in student violence on campuses in Jordan. We have only had one fight on the campus of AUM this year but the report is disturbing. They are not caused by political unrest but strife between tribes or family groups. While that is better it is still a cause of concern. 

We've seen that the allegiance to the extended family or clan is extremely powerful here. Nearly all business is done between family members. One of the most common statement we here is "He's my cousin" and they mean it literally. It may not be a first cousin, but when a family has settled and lived in a community for hundreds of years, it's not hard to have an extended family. In Madaba there are two dominant families, the Twal and the Sawalha families. Both are powerful and well connected. On Saturday I went out to do some errands and everyone I met or dealt with was either a Twal or Sawalha. So when something goes wrong in a relationship between the families the whole family might get involved. 

Accident: I've described the driving here as being insane. Saturday I was trying to find a shop to fix a lamp and I did what everyone does. I pulled part way off the street to park. It partly blocked a lane, but we see cars that are double and triple parked blocking up to two lanes. As I was starting to get out, I heard the normal honking, thinking that I was blocking traffic. Then I heard the crash as two cars tried to squeeze through. Both cars had both fenders destroyed and their front wheels came off. It became the neighborhood event and a crowd quickly gathered. Since traffic needed to get through I moved my car and got out of there, quickly. 

Yesterday I saw the craziest driving stunt. We were waiting at a red light on a divided highway with a median. A car on the far right pulled through and ran the red light, then made a left turn cutting across all the traffic. Then he drove directly headlong into the oncoming traffic, going the wrong way for several blocks. And you wonder why there are not more accidents? 

Upcoming trip: Ronna and I plan to take a trip between Christmas and New Year. We'll go to a resort on the Dead Sea. It's got five pools and do the mud packs with Dead Sea mud. It's supposed to be very therapeutic. We'll get up to the site of Jesus baptism and then go down the Dead Sea to Aqaba. We'll pass by what is referred to as Lot's Cave, where Lot is reputed to have dwelled. The sites of Sodam and Gomorrah are disputed as to the exact location but they generally are supposed to be along the shore of the Dead Sea in this location.

We'll stay in the resort and port community of Aqaba then go up to Wadi Rum and Petra. Look them up. We're pretty excited. At Aqaba we'll be very near Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Israel, though we'll not cross the borders. 

Brent Strong, Ronna's cousin who arranged for our work in Jordan. He's an advisor to the President and also does humanitarian service work for the church. Brent's wife Margaret is very involved in getting wheelchairs to handicapped people in Jordan. 

This is a gathering of the Art and Design faculty and students. From the right on the front row, the professors are from Egypt, England, Jordan, Syria and Syria. When they asked me to speak, the students gave me wild cheers. I must be too easy. 

We're In a "Dustard" for Thanksgiving, but the gypsies are moving

Sunday, Dec. 1, 2013--From Tom:

So the bubble burst! Yesterday I walked under sunny blue skies in 70 degree temperatures. Perfect! This morning Ronna said, "You won't like what you see." I looked out and it was white. I wondered if it was snow or maybe fog. I turned out to be a dust, maybe mixed with fog. Anyway, it's windy, much cooler and hard to see far because of the dust. The weather report describes it as "widespread dust" We combine the fog, dust and dehydrated blizzard to be a "Dustard".

It is predicted that these dust storms occur in the Spring for several days and cause literally a whiteout. With my asthma it may be challenging. So far I haven't been affected. But we may need to kick on the heat.

Dust storm from our roof

Olive Harvest--

They tell us they needed some rain to prepare the olive trees for harvest. We had a small, 15 minute rain storm a few weeks ago, so Mariam and her family gathered to pick the olives. I wondered how they did it and joined to help. They also hired local Bedouin boys since it is such a large job. It was interesting to see how the boys interacted and bargained for their pay. They were fun and tried their meager English on me as well as giving me directions.

Tom harvesting olives with Lani, the domestic helper from Sri Lanka. She's worth a lot more than me. 

They have about 80 olive trees which are harvested by pulling on the branches, like pulling off a  sleeve. The branches are not strong so it's not easy to get to them. They spread a large cloth or tarp below for the olives to fall into. Then they gather them into an enclosure on the patio. It's a lot of work. I only did a few hours and was bushed.

The olive pit with the our Bedouin olive pickers

Moving Time: 

Yesterday during my walk through the olive orchards I noticed that some of the gypsy or Bedouin families were in the process of folding their large tent and packing it in a truck. When I saw them, they had packed the tent fabric and were now taking down the metal framework. All were in head scarves and working in good teamwork, like they had done this many times. We understand that they move down closer to the Dead Sea when it starts to get cooler here. So we are now seeing temperatures near 45-50 at night and they have no heaters. The Dead Sea is below sea level so it is quite a bit warmer there. They survive on their goats and sheep. We really don't yet understand their story but plan on investigating. We have heard many versions. The most likely is that they originally lived in Palestine, now Israel. They are thus, refugees. Some think they have money but it sure doesn't look like it. The children go off to school but mostly we see them staying by themselves and living in squalid dirty conditions. It's still a mystery. Anyway, they are moving to their summer home. 

Our Bedouin or gypsy neighbors folding their tent and preparing to move down to the Dead Sea where it's warmer.

Our little church Branch: 

Last Sunday was the last for our students from BYU who are here to study Arabic. They are mostly young couples but there are a few singles. They are very involved and talented and will be missed until a new batch comes next year. So we are down to about 20 or so. The choir director sent us an email suggesting that all of us will sing in the choir. I then asked who will hear us. Ronna volunteered. It will be interesting. 

Thanksgiving: 

We celebrated Thanksgiving at the home of one of the members of the Branch Presidency, who is also an Embassy worker in IT. They have a beautiful home and were able to feed and seat about 80 in their living room and dining room. It was great sitting on the porch in 70 degree sun after about 3 helpings of everything. We even had Jordanian Gendarmes with machine guns guarding us. 

Thanksgiving at the Leishman Residence--seating about 80 in the living room. Housing provided by the Embassy

Special Visitors, Exams, Little Beasts and a Providential Meeting

Sunday Nov. 24--From Tom:

Special Visitors from Salt Lake: So, we're not forgotten! Last weekend we had some wonderful visitors from Church Headquarters. Elder Tad Callister, of the Presidency of the Seventy; David McMillan, Director of Temporal Affairs under the Presiding Bishop; Sharon Eubanks, Director of LDS Charities worldwide and Elaine Bond, Specialist in Welfare Services flew in to review the progress of the church projects here in Jordan. Elder Callister had a special Fireside for both the Arabic and English branches. It was beautiful to hear both the English and the Arabic translation of his message. Sharon Eubanks, as a special favor, brought over to me a half year supply of a critical medicine, that I couldn't obtain in Jordan. It came in the nick of time.

What a surprise to start teaching my Gospel Doctrine class with these visitors in the class, except Elder Callister. The lesson  was about continuing revelation and their input made it even more special.

Fireside with Elder Callister--photo op afterward with some Asian sisters from branch

Great Conversation: Yesterday, I needed a break from grading tests so I drove into Madaba to visit a good Muslim friend. With one of his customers ( from Holland ) there, he looked at me in shock. He said he was amazed that I showed up at just that time. He said that just 5 minutes earlier he had been telling this lady about the Mormons, so he said to her, " and here is a Mormon". He spoke on how he respected how they were so sincere in providing quiet service to so many. Largely, he was referring to the work of Brent and Margaret Strong but also Bobbie and Chris Coray who served here as humanitarian missionaries working in health care, education and in many other aspects. After the customer left, we sat and talked about service. But mostly he talked about how we all need to have purity of heart and sincere caring. He also spoke positively about his belief in life after death. It was an incredible conversation. Mostly I listened. 

Little Cheats: This was Exam Week and Ronna had an eye-opening experience. We knew the Jordanian students copy work from each other, clip articles from published journals and are generally very creative with circumventing the rules ( how's that for being gentle?). We didn't realize to what extent they went to literally cheat. Ronna took special precautions by having students spaced apart from each other and warned them explicitly. Yet she still had to take exams away from several students who were blatantly cheating and had to get pretty angry with others. They were holding exam papers so others could see. They placed lists on the floor to refer to. 

We have found out that it is not considered wrong here to cheat on exams. It's a challenge and expected. They have had experience in earlier classes where teachers would actually give answers during exams and where they would use earphones to link with an outside resources. Their educational pattern has been "rote" teaching, learning by memorization. So they have a problem with creative thinking, getting "out of the box" and problem solving. 

I didn't have problems with cheating with my students, probably because I took away the opportunity and gave warning. But I am a little frustrated with getting them to think creatively and get out of rote answers. This gives me direction for the next weeks. They will have many quick exercises in problem solving where there are no textbook answers. If there is a problem here in Jordan, it's having the people recognize problems and then come up with solutions. It's standard procedure in America and is what has given us the ability to rise up and overcome problems. This leads to my next adventure. 

I am going to propose to our Art and Design team to adopt the idea of Problem Solving as the annual research project. We would adopt a local community and find problems that need attention. This would provide real world experience, give them research opportunities, develop multi-disciplinary teams and engage with the public. So far it's just an idea. That is until…….we met the Garretts. 

Enter the Garretts: After church on Sunday we met James and Shaylyn Garrett. They are here in Jordan running an NGO, or Non Governmental Organization, on teaching and training on "Problem Solving." James is a Columbia trained psychologist and Shaylyn is a social worker. They hired and are now training Jordanian youth in critical thinking and Problem Solving. They will be developing a set of courses on Problem Solving at AUM. Bingo!!!

We went to their studio and home. It is down in the alleys of Downtown Amman--in a somewhat Bohemian section of Amman called Rainbow Street. ( originally called Ar-Rinbo in Arabic) Because so many foreign ex-patriots live there, the name got changed. These are the cliffside stacked buildings up narrow infinite stairways that Ronna referred to when we drove to the Post Office. You arrive from the top and go down 20-30 narrow stairs to their hole in the wall entry. Their studio and home is perched on the cliffside overlooking other rooftops. Within their building are little courtyards and rooftop perches. Very cool

View of Central Amman from Garretts Deck

View toward the Roman Citadel in Downtown Amman from Garretts Deck

Looking down to Children's Play Yard of Apartment Below. Can you imagine that this is the whole outdoor playspace for many children here. I was on the balcony and heard the sound of children laughing but couldn't see them until I looked down. They were playing a board game. 

Access Stairway from Rainbow Street

After hearing of their work, Ronna and I were amazed because we recognized that I needed their skills and passion to accomplish what I had a vision to do. It felt like a blessing of providence. We'll see where this goes. 

Little Beasts: Ronna heard some noise out near our front entry. There is a trash dumpster there. She saw our little gypsy or Bedouin boys in the neighborhood going through the trash, but they didn't just "dumpster dive." They pulled everything out looking for things to salvage and loot. They left everything laying out on the drive. It's no wonder there is trash laying everywhere. Of course the landlords have left a pile of debris from the remodel laying there for months, so I guess it's a signal that a little more trash won't matter. How does a culture not care about their surroundings? 

I asked my students in prolonged discussions, why there was so much trash laying around our communities and along the highways. One of them responded " Do you think you can change a 3rd world country?" So the issue is that they see themselves as being less than they really are. The challenge is building a sense of pride and empowerment in them. 

Thanksgiving in Jordan: We will be gathering with our little branch in the home of one of the members from the US Embassy to celebrate Thanksgiving. ( Small branch and big home ). So while we are away from our dear family, we will be with loving people in the great American tradition. The biggest challenge was finding a patch of grass that the younger men could play a little football on. It took weeks to find some grass. How's that for sad. Nevertheless, we will be having turkey, and all the fixings, table games, football and laughter. 

Weather: We finally turned on the heat since weather finally has gotten down to about 50 at night. Most days are near 70 but the evenings get a little cool. Much better than winters, but we miss the beautiful fall colors. Everything is still green. So it's hard to get our minds into the fact it's Thanksgiving. 

Love to you all--Tom & Ronna. 

Let us know if you get these.