Black and White

Friday, Dec 13, From Ronna:

COLD-IT'S RELATIVE: Last Wednesday we arrived at school around 12:30 for our classes at 1:00. All night-long the 25 mph winds had whipped the barren olive branches in our orchard into a frenzy and whistled in and around and through this old building we call home. We huddled under blankets and ski hats as the cement walls and floors sucked up any heat generated from the little radiators in every room. Torrents of rain began mixing with the wind gusts and the scant numbers of students and faculty who had braved the storm, hid inside.

"We are canceling all classes for this afternoon so the students can get home," announced my cordial dean Dr. Issam. ""Tomorrow has been declared a holiday, as well." Not surprising. Every other week has at least one holiday here in Jordan. I had to walk outside to the furthest building for my class to make sure any diligent students were informed. To my surprise, half of the class showed up and their reward: I told them what was going to be on their second exam next week. One asked if he could see it. Nice try.

Instead of going directly home, we stopped at the local small appliance store and bought two radiant heaters (one for each of us at our desks) and got a "take away" of hot lentil soup from one of our "go to" restaurants. Back home, dressed in our ski outfits with radiant heat defrosting our bones, we sipped hot soup and played a competitive game of Scrabble. (I won.) The wind and rain accompanied us.

Thursday, we awoke to swirling snow! SNOW! My students had told me that they get snow, but I didn't believe them. They are the same ones who wrap up in scarves, parkas and boots when the thermometer dips to 50 degrees. However, this morning (Friday--church was cancelled), the wind has blown and melted all of the snow. Blink. Snow. Blink. No snow. I think it's a Jordanian magic trick. More snow is predicted, and the wind is constant. How can I complain when Logan has zero degrees and a foot of snow? I look at the gypsy tents and shiver. The dogs are finally subdued.

THE REAL BLACK: We are driving home through the back streets of Madaba one night, and our headlights illuminate what seemed like a shadow moments before. No. It is a Muslim woman, dressed in her long black covering, her black head scarf, her black shoes, and her black purse. Unless she smiles, there is no break in the blackness. Somehow, the women all come out and walk along the dark streets in the evening, each hand holding tightly to a child. Why are the children not in bed? Where are the men? Some are walking along the streets, too, but the red and white scarves they wear act like a reflective sign. There are no sidewalks and so you have to be on constant alert for the dark figures darting out between parked cars and dark alleys.

COOKING: I am going to attempt one of my favorite dishes for dinner: Quiche Lorraine. They have wonderful cheeses here and Cozmo is one store which sells the forbidden meat: bacon. (A small side note: I happened to see where the animal rights people are asking that supporters sign a petition to enforce better living conditions for pigs in the European Union. I'll be doing a unit on endangered animals in one of my classes next month and I just might throw that in out of sheer evilness). Back to the recipe: lots of eggs (fresh from the chickens with no refrigeration!), labaneh which is a good version of sour cream, onions, broccoli and we are good to go! Only problem: forgot to buy a rolling pin and I have no pie plate, but I have a pyrex dish and I can press and mold the crust between sheets of wax paper. It will be yummy!

CHRISTMAS TREE: Yes! I am decorating a fat, little, fake tree: Mohammadyousef Mohammad Emad Al-Juboori (Mojo) will be covered in camels of all shapes and sizes and little Jordanian fridge-magnets-turned ornaments. Add red and white lights (Jordanian colors) and Tom will find me a star for the top. I think I will keep the tree in the corner of the living room until we leave. Most shops in Madaba and even Amman are decorated with little trees or lights. I never would have believed that existed in a Muslim country. I am making rice bags that you can heat up in the microwave for Christmas presents if I can find the fabric and someone with a sewing machine to sew them for me!!!!  Merry, Merry!  

Snowstorm in Jordan--Everything shuts down

Tom seeking the warmth of sun- clothed in turtleneck, heavy sweater, fleece vest plus coat and hat.