Petra and Wadi Rum

January 12, 2014--From Tom:

WADI RUM: On our grand tour of southern Jordan we decided, after staying in Aqaba, to visit Wadi Rum and Petra, two of the most famous and visited sites in Jordan. We were not disappointed.

Wadi Rum- with the "Seven Pillars of Wisdom" on the left

Bedouins taking tourists for a ride into Wadi Rum--it used to be on camel

Wadi Rum--famous for T.E Lawrence and Lawrence of Arabia. It's an enchanted setting. 

This is so vast and enchanted that you can't just see it in an hour. We plan to come back and spent a few days getting into it. The Bedouins, mostly nomadic tribes in the area, have found a good livelihood in being guides and tour operators. They know the desert and have established campsites and trails. One of the favorites for visitors is to go with the Bedouins on a multi-day tour and sleep in Bedouin tents and have them cook traditional meals. I want to do this but Ronna is not convinced yet.

This area was made famous in the adventures of T.E. Lawrence, the British military leader who assisted the Arabs in the successful revolt which overthrew the Ottoman rule in the area in 1916-1918. It's also been the setting for numerous films.

The youth of our little branch of the church went here for their youth conference. They were so enthusiastic in how amazing the land was, especially at night when they could climb the sand dunes in the moonlight and see the panorama of the stars in the night sky against the rugged cliffs. It is hundreds of miles from any significant light pollution from cities. We'll be back, never mind the scorpions!

PETRA: Petra is the ancient home of an extinct civilization known as the Nabateans who had a trading empire from about 580 BC to somewhere about 500 AD. They were not conquerors but master traders. They first thrived when the Israelites were taken into bondage by the Babylonians in 586 BC and left a power vacuum in the area. The Edomites moved into the land of Israel and the Nabateans grew in power. They were at the crossroads of the trading routes between Europe and the lands of Persia and Arabia. So the Nabateans grew wealthy charging a toll and resupplying the caravans. While their influence was vast, their capital, Petra, prospered because they controlled the water supply in the desert. They built reservoirs, conduits and diversions and sold the water.

What is interesting is that the water supply, known as Wadi Musa, is translated as the Spring of Moses and is believed to be the site where Moses struck his rod into the rock and water gushed forth. It's also the site of Mt. Hor, where Aaron is believed to be buried. The Greeks and Romans had influence and control at various times.

Petra from the east at sunset

Access to Petra is through Siq, or slot canyon, a mile long and sometimes 9 ft wide. Much like southern Utah

Petra was hidden from world for over 1000 years, until 1812

First view of Treasury from Siq

The Treasury at Petra--carved out of solid rock cliff 

The Treasury at Petra--view emerging from Siq

One of many camels, donkeys and horses offered to weary tourists. Total walk was about 7 miles and my legs were dead but we have allergies to these creatures.

Petra imitates the ancient Greek and Roman temple architecture in exacting detail but is carved out of the rock cliffs. Some have deteriorated due to earthquakes, erosion and now tourism. The Petra site is a UNESCO Cultural Heritage site and named as one of the 28 things you must see before you die. I almost died there. Our walk down, down, down the narrow Siq, around the ancient city and then back again was about 7 miles. We were offered, pleaded and  cajoled by the Bedouins to ride their camel, donkey or horse but felt we'd have allergic reactions. 

To get to Petra, we had to cross a mountain range and drive along a narrow, winding road at it's precipice. It would have been scary enough, but it was very foggy and the temperature was close to freezing and the roads were becoming icy. There were piles of snow along the sides, but we made it. 

Our hotel in Wadi Musa ( Spring of Moses) was a big mistake. Les Maison, was a dive. Terrible shower that didn't fit, horrible TV, ill fitting sheets, and being NEW YEARS EVE, we had the hooka band rocking and rolling in Arabic Swing until the wee hours--right next to our room. So we just played Scrabble and threw bedbugs at each other all night. 

ALMOST DIVORCE: Ronna had a great fear of heights, especially while driving. On our road home we had to drive  through Wadi Mujib, a 4,300 ft deep gorge which enters the Dead Sea from the east. Our road had numerous switchbacks as it descended the cliffs on the south. I had taken some pictures and it was freakin Ronna out something horrible. I like to hang off the cliff and hold on with one hand while taking a picture with the other. Ronna is grabbing her stomach on the floor. It was all manageable until we were almost to the top of the switchbacks on the north. As we came around the bend I saw one more overlook and made a sudden sharp turn across the highway onto the edge of the cliff. With the car perched on the edge of a 4,000 ft high cliff and almost no guardrail, Ronna lost it and said some "harsh" words. I took the photo and had silence for a day or two until I apologized. ( She will give her version in the near future )

 On the edge of Wadi Mujib North Rim--over 4,000 ft deep